Foodie Friday VI
After an amazing 2012 in the foodie world we are looking forward to see what trends 2013 has in store.
The Huffington Post: Food trends for 2013, Joe Satran
Popcorn: New frontiers in gourmet popcorn – unusual flavours, thoughtfully-sourced ingredients
Tea: Some people think tea is the new coffee, and that we’re likely to see more varieties in the future
Cured Meat: Chefs and Meat processors are still finding new ways to produce scrumptious varieties of salumi and charcuterie beyond thing like prosciutto and pancetta.
Gochujang: A Korean hot sauce that some think could soon supplant sriracha as the red Asian condiment of choice
Chicken: With the price of beef, lamb and pork soaring restaurants have increasingly looked toward luxurious preparations of chicken as a viable meat entree on moderately-priced menus.
Winter Veggies, Served Fresh: Especially at high-end restaurants, vegetables that grow in the winter, like squashed, kale and turnip have been served more frequently in preparations that are lighter and fresher than old staples like roasting and stewing
Barrel-Aged Hot Sauce: Like barrel-aged bourbon or wine, except hot sauce
Chef Collaborations: Chefs are increasingly coming out of the kitchen to make new kinds of food in concert with other chefs or with food companies.
Non-Alcoholic Beverages: As younger diners, pregnant women and non-drinkers visit high-end restaurants more often, they increasingly look for beverage options that don’t include booze but nonetheless taste interesting
Artisanal Bread: Restaurants and bakeries alike have been putting more effort into their bread baskets of late
Fermentation: Foods like kimchi and sauerkraut have become extremely prominent due to their unusual meld of umami and sour tastes
Vegetables as Main Courses: Chefs bored by the same old seared pork chops and braised short ribs have been experimenting more and more with putting vegetables at the centre of the plate rather than forcing them to play supporting roles, much to the delight of vegetarian diners
Smoke: Smoke is being used to preserve and flavour ingredient food and drinks far afield of standbys like trout and salmon: potatoes, bourbon, creme fraiche and even water, to name a few.
The Independent: Ingredients trends for 2013, Sudi Pigott
Moghrabieh: Unreservedly the new polenta. Found throughout the Arab world, it is small pearl-like balls of rolled semolina cooked over an open flame. Moghrabieh has considerably larger grains than couscous and retains more bite when cooked.
Fennel Pollen: It may be the third most expensive spice after saffron and cardamom, but fortunately a little is transformative with a subtle, yet haunting, fragrance. Fennel Pollen is single-handedly turning chefs on to its charms in dishes from venison carpaccio to wild salmon, even mixed with breadcrumbs to coat green-lipped mussels and in fishcakes.
Sumac: A dark red/purple berry (known as a sumac bob) that grows in spiky clusters on small wild trees, it is picked when the “bobs” are dry and hard, crushed by hand and has earthy, fruity notes with a distinctive citrus tang and is frankly addictive. It can be added to everything from scrambled eggs to hummus.
Tonka Bean: The wrinkled seed from a flowering South American tree, the tonka bean’s taste is linked strongly to its aroma with notes of cherry, almond, cinnamon and vanilla. Contrary to what some assume, it is not a cheap substitute for vanilla, which is more floral while tonka has distinctive fruity, earthy tones, though both are good in ice-cream
Chervil Root: Long fashionable on French menus, chervil root is gaining currency as a more intriguing root alternative to parsnip, with a delicate flavour closer to artichoke and chestnut with notes of aniseed and a lovely fluffy texture
Beef Round Heel: Beef round heel pot roast “has absolutely stonking depth of flavour”, according to chef Ben Spalding, definitely “a haute in trainers” new culinary force to be reckoned and increasingly renowned for cooking challenging and playful dishes at pop-ups around London and beyond. He braises the round (from the back end of the cow) for up to a day to make it incredibly tender, yet it remains still lush and pink. Already more popular in the US, after butchering, beef round heel is often reserved for making beef stock, a waste of the new brisket, according to Spalding.
Choucroute: Ripe for revival and already proliferating on chef’s menus, it’s billed as sauerkraut, too, and perhaps subliminally influenced by the ever-growing gastro excitement about all things kimchi/Korean. Pierre Koffmann waxes lyrical about “choucroute’s beautiful, hearty flavour yet silky texture” and adds that it is good for the stomach and digestion. Koffmann buys his cabbage raw and fermented from Rungis market. In the kitchen it is rinsed, sautéed in pork fat (or goose or duck), layered with onions, carrots, bouquet garni, peppercorns, juniper and Alsace riesling and simmered for a minimum of two hours.
Grimsby Haddock: This is like no other smoked haddock, both in its taste and story. Cooking it at home for a simple lunch, you will be was blown away by its moist, still translucent texture that flakes away and, most importantly, is not over-smoked. The Grimsby haddock tradition goes back to the mid 1880s. Fillets are brined and drained on long metal rods called spreats and cold-smoked overnight in the tall, tar-lined chimneys of Jaines & Sons’ listed-building smokehouse.
Capers: Capers are essentially flower buds, harvested by hand because they are so small (the most sought after and tiniest are called sanpareil), sun-dried and pickled or salted. Sudi Pigott favours those grown on the volcanic Aoelian islands of Pantelleria and Lipari, close to Sicily.
Gorgonzola: It’s made from cow’s milk, the salted curds injected by an intriguing multi-needle Heath Robinson-style machine with a culture native to the Po Valley, Penicillium glaucum, which allows the air to enter and helps the development. They spend three days in bikram-yoga humidity and temperature “purgatory” and are aged for 90 to 110 days before being wrapped in foil to retain moisture.
Hot-dinners: Restaurant trends for 2013, Catherine Hanly
Fay Maschler; Restaurant critic for the Evening Standard
- The small plate scam will be blown open.
- Cured, brined, pickled, fermented ingredients will turn up on menus.
- Coconut oil with its various health benefits will be the new extra virgin olive oil.
- Customised marshmallows, doughnuts and éclairs will usurp macaroons and cupcakes.
- A mild backlash against unhealthy fat-drenched food and also the sheer cost of first-class protein.
- Baby boomers, the reliable source of disposable income.
- More microbreweries will open and their products feature increasingly strongly on drinks lists.
- If Islington, once a deadbeat area for restaurants, can change and improve then maybe the same could happen to Clapham. Doubtful but possible.
Mark Hix; Restaurateur – Hix, Tramshed
- I think the growth in South American food will probably continue following the opening of restaurants like Lima and Ceviche this year.
- There are also pockets of London that people will now travel to eat.
- Balthazar and Shake Shack will absolutely cement Covent Garden’s resurgence as a credible central London neighbourhood after years in tourist doldrums – Russell Norman
Russell Norman: Restaurateur – Polpo, Spuntino, Mishkin’s
- I do know that the first half of the year will be dominated by two NY imports: Keith McNally’s Balthazar in February and Danny Meyer’s Shake Shake shortly afterwards
Mike Palmer: Brand Concept Consultant
- Front of House kitchens – Cool examples include Revel in Fremont, Sitka and Spruce in Seattle, Chicken Shop in Kentish Town which has a similar dynamic albeit slightly more distant and Pollen Street Social where the dessert chefs are out front working at the bar.
- More smoked foods.
- Thai – Real Thai food is about to break out. Look out for the US Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok , recently opened Naamyaa, Pubbelly, PingPDX, Good Girl Dinette.
Ewan Ventners: CEO – Fortnum & Mason
- We’ll see top end chefs continue to create formats which are more accessible – for example Mark Hix and Tramshed.
- High end casual dining markets set to continue to grow as consumers demand better quality but better value.
- Afternoon tea.
- Learning to make cool cocktails at home to compliment the cooking revolution over the last few years.
- Flavour is going to be the new word in food. Providence, local and organic as words to describe food will be superseded by the word flavour as a reminder to foodies and cooks alike that the food we buy must have flavour above all else!
Scott Collins: Co-owner of MEATliquor, Wishbone
- My prediction for 2013 is that more big money players will be opening places that ‘pay homage’ to operations already opened by inventive independent operators
Maureen Mills: Director/Owner of Network London PR
- Vegetables will have more prominence on menus.
- Fatigue over non-booking restaurants and queues to eat.
- Is fine dining over? Reports of quiet dining rooms in fancy places continue every week, who has time for the 3 hour lunch? (Sad but true). Bistros and brassieres and cafes are 2013…
Will Beckett: Co-owner of Hawksmoor
- If 2012 seems to have been about burgers and chicken I think pork might well be the next big thing
- I think we might start seeing a few ‘losers’ in London rather than the constant stream of ‘winners’ that we’ve had for the past few years. London seems a bit saturated at the moment in a few areas (steak is one of them!)
- I’d love to see bars get a bit more fun. There seems to be a choice between quality or fun and that seems to be a false choice to me.
Marina O’Loughlin: Restaurant critic for The Guardian
- We’ll also see a lot of popcorn. And crisped chicken/duck skins. And more ‘designer’ pizza (sourdough, slow-proved etc). The new flash-trash food – Marina O’Loughlin
- I reckon sour notes are going to be huge, as an antidote to and foil for all the big fatty flavours are so now.
- Plus we’ll see more butch things that beardy boys like to do: in-house butchery, smokers, home-made charcuterie (see Lardo etc).
Christine Hayes: Editor, Olive magazine
- I think service is going to get better.
- I also think that Blueprint Cafe is going to get lots of attention – new chef Mark Jarvis is doing good things there: classical cooking in a very British environment but with a few Scandi touches that he may have picked up when he worked with Aggi Sverinsson at Texture.
- And I imagine there will be more and more chef collaborations – established chefs inviting the new guard into their restaurants as a way of increasing the audience for both.
Jonathan Downey: Founder and director of The Rushmore Group – Milk & Honey, Redhook
- Cheerio Vodka – Gin is it and will continue to be during 2013 thanks to all the great new gins fighting for back bar space.
- A Proper Bar – Someone is going to open a really great place to go and have a beer and a shot with music and your mates.
- Grown up pizza – Someone is going to open a really good, easy eating pizza place for grown-ups with good beers and wines and a nice easy vibe.
- The trend for dirty/trash food will certainly continue to be hugely popular and spread away from central London (already seen with Chicken Shop in Kentish Town and Wishbone in Brixton). But we also expect a reaction to this, with many chefs looking to drag the focus away from burgers as they attempt to nudge us towards a slightly healthier diet.
- We’re looking forward to more inventive bar food this year – to go with all the great cocktails and craft beers.
- We’ll bet on a big name chef finally opening at Claridges, taking over from Gordon. We hear there are plenty of key names in the running, but whoever comes top will have one of the biggest openings of the year.